Engine Running Hot (click here)

For quite some time I had the 1966 classic VW Beetle's ignition timing set at 10 degrees BTDC (before top dead centre). I was advised that this was the correct timing to get the best performance from the engine by one of the local lads. The engine worked well at this setting. However it always ran hot. A hot running engine is a worry, but THE 66 was only doing short hauls around town and I wasn't over concerned. I eventually decided to return the engine tuning back to it's original specs and set the ignition timing at 7.5 degrees BTDC. Immediately the engine temperature dropped. I don't know the technical ins and outs of why the drop in temperature but clearly it was due to the fuel ignition. So, a good tip is the check your ignition timing and carburetter settings if your engine is running hot, and don't always believe what the local VW enthusiast (expert)  tells you - stick to the designer's specs.

Rear Axle Seal - cont'd

Problems. I put THE 66 over the pit to change the gear box oil and found oil leaking from the right rear brake drum. Bad workmanship had resulting in me botching the rear axle seal replacement. I pulled everything down again and reinstalled a new seal, rubber O rings x 2, and gaskets x 2. I thought I had done everything correctly first time around but clearly I had not. The installation has done the job and there are no more oil leaks.

Replaced VW Beetle rear axle seal (click here to see VW type 1 Beetle seal kit)

The right hand rear axle seal was leaking which resulted in oil finding its way onto the brake shoes. This affected the braking of THE 66. Today I replaced the seal etc. I jacked up the car and removed the wheel. I next attached the torque meister (see photo) and after removing the cotter pin, I wound off the large hub nut. A very easy task with the TM tool. Next I removed the seal cover (see photo) by removing four bolts. The main seal was in the cover. The seal was very tight and took a bit of pressure to remove it. After cleaning up the cover ( make sure it it free of burrs and the oil drip hole is clear) I inserted metal oil deflector washer and the new seal. I next removed the outer spacer from the axle (see photo of axle with bearing cover removed). Again, this was very tight as the small rubber O ring behind the spacer had perished and was holding the spacer on tight. Again, quite an amount of pressure was required to remove it. I cleaned up the outer spacer then replaced the small metal washer, rubber O rings and then the outer spacer.


I then replaced the cover using the paper gasket, using gasket sealer to ensure a tight fit.

People told me that the job was quite easy. Well, after doing it a couple of times it may well be. However the first time took some time to think through and get sorted. All up the job took several hours to complete. Next time will be a lot quicker though. But the task is well within the ability of a do it yourself person, so give it a go. The parts cost me only $3. My guess that it would have cost at least $100 to have the work done by a mechanic IMPORTANT: Make sure you check the transmission oil after completing the work. You will see from a photo that quite a bit of oil was lost during the repair job. And yes, I cleaned up the brake shoes, back plate, drum etc etc before reassembling everything.

1966vwbeetle.com (click here)

Mike, aka Rokemester posted a comment: "Welcome to the world of 66 Bettles. There is an excellent website dedicated to 66 Bugs. We have members from all over the world. Tell the forum that Rokemester sent you".
I have been a member of this site for some time now. It is an excellent resource. Not only that you have the chance of meeting some really neat people on line. I have become friends with Blue Baron another forum user. BB has a fantastic collection of old and not so old Volkswagens. I suggest that you visit the forum sometime.